Reference
Footwear glossary
The words you will hear across the counter or read on a shoe box, explained plainly — with a note on why each one matters when you are choosing a pair.
31 terms
Shoe styles
- Oxford
- A formal lace-up whose lace panels are stitched underneath the front of the shoe, so they close flush. That closed lacing is what makes it the dressiest style — the right choice for weddings, court and interviews. Formal shoe styles explained →
- Derby
- A lace-up whose lace panels sit on top of the front, leaving a visible flap either side. Slightly less formal than an oxford and noticeably roomier, which suits a high instep. Formal shoe styles explained →
- Brogue
- Not a shoe type but a decoration: the pattern of punched holes along the seams. Any oxford or derby can be brogued, and the more perforation there is, the less formal the shoe reads.
- Monk strap
- A formal shoe fastened with a buckled strap instead of laces. Smart enough for an office and quicker to get on and off, which matters if you remove your shoes often during the day.
- Loafer
- A slip-on with no fastening at all. Comfortable and easy, and the least formal of the leather shoes — good for travel and warm weather, wrong where a suit is expected.
- Moccasin
- A soft slip-on where the upper wraps under the foot and is stitched around the top of the toe. Very flexible and light, but less supportive than a structured shoe.
- Chukka boot
- An ankle-height boot with two or three pairs of eyelets. Sits between a shoe and a full boot — smarter than a trainer, lighter than a work boot.
- Floaters
- The common Indian term for closed-toe sports sandals with adjustable straps. Practical summer footwear that copes with water far better than a leather shoe. Sandals and chappals →
- PT shoes
- The white canvas or synthetic shoes schools require for games and physical training periods. Usually specified separately from the black formal school shoe. School and sports shoes →
- Bellies
- Flat, closed ladies’ shoes with a low-cut front — the Indian term for what is elsewhere called a ballet flat. The everyday workhorse of most women’s footwear collections. Ladies’ footwear →
Parts of a shoe
- Upper
- Everything above the sole — the part that wraps your foot. When people talk about a shoe being leather or mesh, they mean the upper.
- Vamp
- The front section of the upper, covering the toes and the top of the foot. A shoe that pinches across the vamp is too narrow, not too short.
- Counter
- The stiffened piece at the back that holds the heel in place. A collapsed counter is why an old pair lets your heel slide, and it cannot be repaired.
- Welt
- The strip joining the upper to the sole. A stitched welt can be resoled and generally outlasts a glued seam — worth checking on any shoe you intend to keep for years.
- Last
- The foot-shaped mould a shoe is built around. Every manufacturer uses its own, which is precisely why two shoes both marked UK 9 can fit quite differently. Size guide →
- Eyelet
- The reinforced hole a lace passes through. Metal eyelets last longer than punched holes in leather alone.
Materials
- Full-grain leather
- Leather with its natural outer surface intact — the most durable kind. It creases rather than cracking, develops a patina, and takes polish properly. How to clean and polish leather →
- Nubuck
- Leather buffed on the outer surface to a fine velvety nap. Tougher than suede but still absorbs water readily, and it must never see wax polish — use a dedicated nubuck spray.
- Suede
- Leather finished on the inner surface, giving a soft nap. Handsome and comfortable, but the worst possible choice for the monsoon — once properly soaked it rarely recovers. Choosing footwear for the monsoon →
- Synthetic leather
- A coated fabric made to resemble leather. Cheaper and waterproof, but it cannot be fed or restored, and it eventually cracks and peels rather than ageing.
- Mesh
- Open woven fabric used on sports shoes for breathability. Light and cool, but it holds dust and should never go in a washing machine — the heat separates the glued midsole.
Soles & comfort
- Outsole
- The bottom layer that meets the ground. Its tread pattern decides grip; once worn smooth, the shoe is finished no matter how good the upper still looks.
- Midsole
- The cushioning layer between outsole and foot. This is what compresses over time — when a running shoe "stops feeling right" while looking fine, the midsole has gone.
- Insole / footbed
- The removable layer your foot rests on. Being removable is useful: take it out to dry a wet shoe properly, or replace it with a cushioned one for more comfort.
- EVA
- A light foam used for midsoles and for whole chappals. Cushions well and dries in minutes, which makes it the sensible material for the rains.
- TPR
- Thermoplastic rubber, a common outsole material. Harder-wearing and grippier than plain plastic, and considerably cheaper than natural rubber.
- Shank
- A stiffener under the arch that stops the shoe folding in the middle. Its presence is why a well-made shoe bends at the ball of the foot and nowhere else.
Fit & sizing
- Breaking in
- The period during which stiff leather softens and moulds to your foot. Real, but limited: length, width and heel fit never change. A shoe the wrong shape on day one is the wrong shape on day fifty. Signs your shoes do not fit →
- Heel slip
- The heel lifting out as you walk. Usually means the shoe is too long rather than too wide, and it is the most common cause of blisters at the back of the foot.
- Overpronation
- The foot rolling inward more than usual as it lands. You can spot it in the soles of old shoes, which wear noticeably on the inner edge. Stability running shoes are built for it. Asics running shoes →
- Width fitting
- How broad a shoe is across the ball of the foot, independent of its length. Numbness across the toes means you need a wider fitting — not a longer shoe, which only adds heel slip.
Still not sure what you need?
Our buying guides go into the choices behind these terms, and the size guide covers fit properly.
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